Is this experience you are having changing you?
Me
Definitely.
Universe
How?
Me
I guess I feel upside down. I'm not sure what reality is.
Universe
[Invites me to lie down on the big couch]
And how does that make you feel?
I've often wondered how the place of our birth is chosen. Why wasn't I born in Darfur, Chiapas, Mexico, or on the other end of the spectrum, into a royal family somewhere. I guess, as singer/songwriter Iris DeMent says I'll have to "let the mystery be."
Even as I live my life inside of this great mystery, I still have to figure out how best to navigate my path. Over the past three weeks, the Universe has opened a new window and graciously let me take a look at another small piece of the big picture. Sometimes, the view is spectacular, but sometimes, the breeze that blows through the window chills me and I find myself wanting to hide under the covers in my bed.
As I stare out of this new window, the complex issue of immigration keeps waving at me as it passes by every couple of days. Ever since we were approached by Jimmy and Angelica on our first day here regarding their immigration problems (see post from Monday, June 11), I have been asking questions. I am trying to understand the immigration debate from this side of the border. I read the headlines at home and don't pay a great deal of attention to the issue because I figure that there is nothing I can do. Or, perhaps the truth, although a not so pleasant admission about myself is that I listen to the soundbite of the day and contemplate the issue for 30 seconds or at least until the NPR story is over. Then I head to Starbucks and go about my comfortable, complacent, American life.
When I think about the verb "immigrate," I understand the very literal meaning but long to understand the cause and effect. As I consider the act of immigrating, I also have to explore questions such as "How much is enough?" and "What is home?"
(Disclaimer - this is non-scientific) Here are some things I have learned:
1) On the Center for Immigration Studies website, I learned that the average Mexican immigrant makes $18,952 per year, less than half of the median salary for native U.S. citizens.
2) Immigrants send a large percentage of their income back to their family in Mexico.
3) Angelica has told me that many illegal workers are often working twelve hour days, six to seven days per week, and I would assume, without benefits.
4) The near $19,000 annual salary seems to be five to six times that of a local factory worker, retail worker, or house cleaner. For example, Angelica's sister works six days per week from 9 a.m. - 4 p.m. at a local factory. She brings home $70 USD per week. Maria, who is hired by Pablo and Guadalupe to clean our house, makes $100 pesos ($10 USD) for 2 - 3 hour cleaning session at our house. If it is a day where the linens are changed she is paid an extra $2 USD.
5) Laborers in Mexico work long hours and lots of days. Lorenza at the puesta de pan (bread) in the daily market in Tlaquepaque, told me that she works seven days a week. The only days the market is closed for are Christmas and New Years. Two days off per year. People that Chad has talked to have confirmed that it is nearly impossible to get a five day a week job. Most are six and seven.
6) There seems to be a big gap between the economic classes here, just like in the United States.
7) I asked Pablo what a relatively decent job would be here. He said that engineers and other professionals in the beginning of their careers would make $2000 USD per month ($24K per year) on the very high end.
The cost of living is lower here but certainly not that low. Julia, my Spanish teacher, said that it is only the very, very poor who risk everything to immigrate. Both Julia and Pablo agree that people who are educated and are able to get relatively decent jobs have no desire to leave. They love their country and are deeply connected to their family. Julia is probably an example on the other end of the economic spectrum. I don't know this for a fact, but would assume that she comes from a family with a high income for Mexico. She is very educated. She attended private schools and then the University of Guadalajara. (Her education amazes me. I sit in class in awe of her twenty four year old self!)
Pablo also told me that there are a higher percentage of people from the country than from the city that immigrate. He said that his observation is that it becomes a pattern. A grandfather did it. His son did it. His son's son did it, and so on.
Guadalupe said that besides economic pulls, some Mexicans want the "American Style." As I stated in an earlier post, perhaps Americans have set the bar for standard of living way too high. I don't think most Americans are any happier as a result all of our material possessions. I wonder if Mexicans (or the rest of the world) understand that many, many Americans are living way above their income on credit that is way too easy to obtain to attain this life style?
Just like many places in the world, you can find lots of American influence here. There are pockets in the city that resemble Any City, USA. I would guess that a person could travel to a number of places in the world that seem homogenized by globalization. I am grateful that we are in a traditional Mexican neighborhood because we came to experience something different. I didn't fly down here to hang out at McDonald's. My girls are presently watching the Disney channel which I justify because it is overdubbed in Spanish. It is "language training."
Americans, myself included, seem to want to buy things as cheaply as possible. We want cheap produce, cheap hotels, and most Americans aren't willing to be pickers, dishwashers, and hotel maids. We enjoy the benefit of this "cheap" labor yet is difficult, if not impossible for many of the workers to get a work visa. American companies want to pay as little as possible, consumers want to pay as little as possible, and all of this still equals a better wage, although far from fair, for many Mexicans. All of this encourages illegal immigration. Indirectly, we all encourage this - American consumers and businesses alike. We seem to rely on one another but can't seem to find a way to make it work in every one's best interest. We are neighbors. In a nation of primarily Christians, I am wondering what has happened to "'Love your neighbor as yourself." In a way, many Americans are getting richer at the expense of our Mexican neighbors.
Another thing that I have noticed is that the street vendors expect Americans to barter with them. I am slow to make purchasing decisions. My experience has been that vendors think that my slow decision making is a game I am playing and they quickly lower the price. I pay the price as marked and sometimes a little more. Yesterday, I was purchasing some art work from a street vendor and he tried charging me less than what was marked. One item was marked at $100 pesos and he told me to pay $80 pesos. A difference of $2 USD for me, a big difference for him. I paid full price. I refuse to barter, especially with someone who has spent their time and talents creating something so beautiful. To me, bartering feels like exploitation. I would feel like I was taking away a piece of someone's dignity.
My new friend, Angelica, seems desperate to leave Mexico. I have been to Angelica's house. It is a nice home. It is quite large. Her family has been there for twenty years. Her mom and dad and several siblings live in the area. Her needs seem to be met. Based on my observations, I wouldn't say she is in dire straights.
To refresh your memory, her husband is working in the United States illegally. Her daughter was born in the United States while she was there illegally. The little girl has U.S. citizenship but Angelica can't seem to get a visa to go to the U.S. She doesn't want to raise her daughter in Mexico. She has a meeting with the U.S. Consulate on July 12th to try again. If she can get a three month vacation visa, she will stay indefinitely. Until she gets caught, I guess. I asked her "Is all of this worth it? Why doesn't your husband just come back and try to make it work here, where you can all be together and be with your extended family?"
Her firm reply was that she doesn't want to be in Mexico. She wants to raise her daughter in the United States and will do whatever it takes to make it happen, even if she has to cross illegally with her daughter. I believe she will risk her life to live in the United States. Each time I see her, she says "Please pray for me."
Two Sundays ago we were invited to attend the weekly extended family meal at Pablo's house. His roots are deep here. He has never considered leaving. He is educated, employed, and lives in a large family home where he grew up, his mom grew up, her mom grew up and at least two generations before that were raised. This is something I have rarely seen in America. Every Sunday about twenty extended family members get together for dinner in their courtyard. Their motto is "If you don't have something better to do, please join us. If you have a better plan, go!" Nothing fancy - a very traditional Mexican meal. We didn't eat on fancy dishes that matched. Most of the dishes had chips. No one cared. I often notice at gatherings in the United States that perfect presentation is a focus. Here, just being together seems to be the focus. This family is generally happy but has their ups and downs just like any family. However, they are very committed to one another and the Sunday meal happens without fail. It was lovely to be included. Mexico might not be the economic force that the U.S. is but commitment to family is unbelievable.
Maybe part of the human condition is thinking that, as the cliche goes, "the grass is always greener." It must be a mirage. Some Mexican people immigrate because they are desperate and have lost hope of making it in their own country. Some immigrate because, as Guadalupe put it, they crave "The American Style." I think that any American who spent much time here would begin to crave the feelings of security that come with such a rich heritage, deep roots, and amazing commitment to family. This seems to be where much of the wealth lies in this country.
Which brings me to a question that all human beings should spend more time contemplating. How much is enough? In whatever world we exist, we all have our struggles. Every human I know thinks the grass is greener somewhere else. Perhaps that is part of the reason I made this trip. I am beginning to learn that the only place the grass is greener is on the inside. Until I am willing to cultivate that which is deep inside of me, to nurture the non-physical, I will not find happiness. More money, a move, a successful career, none of this will bring happiness.
Perhaps if we all defined "enough" and lived moderately within those boundaries (with an occasional piece of dark chocolate), the distribution of resources would even out and maybe, just maybe, the scales would be tipped dramatically on the side of happiness. Perhaps humanity would finally achieve peace, both inner and out. I don't know. This is just me, standing on the outside, trying desperately to look in. Now, if you'll excuse me, I'm going to ask Manuel of "Tacos Manuel" if he'll be my guru. I think it is possible he has mastered the art of living.
3 comments:
The insights you are getting now - are a perfect example of the value of travel. Not traveling to resorts, but studying, working, getting to know people in other countries and cultures. The chance to see things through the eyes of others is priceless and life changing. Rotary Club knows this, and that's why they facilitate exchanges at all levels. Their goal is world peace, their means is by giving us a chance to get to know each other. That is also why I try every year to bring students abroad. One week with a family in another country will change forever how they see their own society. And it's not just seeing poverty and being more appreciative of what you have. It's seeing, for example, their connectedness with family and realizing that wealth isn't the most important thing.
Hope you enjoy your last week before vacation. I bet the girls are looking forward to it.
Kari
I hope you're taking more copious notes of all the wanderings, images and reflective thoughts going on. Your first best-seller lies within. I remember taking some hard looks at my country and the people in it when I was traveling in Honduras. Hopefully our observatons stay with us forever.
Dip your feet in the ocean for me.
Keep up the good work.
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